Guides for Undercuts and Sidepulls: Proper Techniques for Rock Climbing

Rock climbing is a sport that requires not only physical strength but also a keen understanding of various techniques to navigate different holds effectively. Among these techniques, using undercuts and sidepulls can significantly enhance your climbing performance. Here, we delve into expert tips from Neil Gresham on how to master these essential climbing skills.

Understanding Undercuts and Sidepulls

Both undercuts and sidepulls are fundamental hold types that demand specific body positions and movements to utilize effectively. Here’s a closer look at each:

Undercuts

An undercut is a hold that is gripped from underneath, requiring you to pull upwards. Here are key points for using undercuts effectively:

1. Body Positioning: When using an undercut, it’s crucial to keep your body close to the wall. Lean back slightly and engage your core to maintain balance and stability.
2. Footwork: Good footwork is essential when using undercuts. Place your feet high and push with your legs to take some weight off your arms. This allows you to pull more efficiently with your hands.
3. Grip and Pull: Grip the hold firmly from underneath and pull upwards while maintaining tension in your core. Use your biceps and back muscles to generate pulling power.
4. Movement: To move from an undercut, push with your legs and extend your arm to reach the next hold. Keep your body tight to prevent swinging out from the wall.

Sidepulls

A sidepull is a hold that is gripped from the side, requiring you to pull sideways. Here’s how to use sidepulls effectively:

1. Body Positioning: Position your body so that it is perpendicular to the sidepull. Your feet should be placed in a way that allows you to push against the wall while pulling on the hold.
2. Footwork: Foot placement is critical when using sidepulls. Your feet should be positioned to create opposition against the pull. This might mean placing your feet wide apart or finding footholds that allow you to push against the direction of the pull.
3. Grip and Pull: Grip the sidepull securely and pull sideways. Engage your shoulder and back muscles to generate pulling power. Keep your body close to the wall to maintain balance.
4. Movement: To move from a sidepull, push with your legs and shift your weight in the direction of the pull. This will allow you to reach the next hold more easily and with better control.

Tips for Practicing Undercuts and Sidepulls

Practicing these techniques will help you become more proficient and confident in using undercuts and sidepulls. Here are some practice tips:

1. Drills: Incorporate specific drills into your training routine that focus on undercuts and sidepulls. Practice maintaining body tension and foot positioning while using these holds.
2. Route Selection: Choose climbing routes that feature a variety of undercuts and sidepulls. This will give you the opportunity to practice these techniques in different scenarios.
3. Strength Training: Strengthen your core, back, and shoulders through targeted exercises. These muscle groups are crucial for generating the pulling power needed for undercuts and sidepulls.
4. Partner Feedback: Climb with a partner who can provide feedback on your technique. They can help you identify areas for improvement and offer tips to refine your skills.

Conclusion

Mastering undercuts and sidepulls is essential for any climber looking to improve their technique and tackle more challenging routes. By focusing on body positioning, footwork, and specific movements, you can effectively use these holds to enhance your climbing performance. Remember to incorporate drills, choose appropriate routes, and strengthen key muscle groups to build proficiency in these techniques.